or: The railway’s ended but
the terminal lingers on.
If you stand at Piazza Carlo
III in Naples, in front of the old Albergo dei Poveri (the
massive Bourbon “Hospice for the Poor”—the Royal Poor
House) and look across the street, you can see a building
(photo, left) with “Ferrovia Napoli - Piedimonte Matese”
engraved on the face. “Ferrovia”—it claims to be a train
station. Indeed, some older maps of the city still show
squiggly dotted lines leading away from that building—a
rail line. It is, alas, a deception. Though the doors are
sometimes open and you can get in to see historical maps
and things on the walls, the Piedimonte d'Alife Railway,
or the Alifana, is no more.
The railway took its name from
the last stop, the Piedimonte d'Alife station, today named
Piedimonte Matese, a town about 40 miles north of Naples.
The original plan was to provide service from downtown
Naples up through the area known as Capodimonte (site of the
airport), through Secondigliano, Marano, Giugliano, and
then out of the city, north to the less densely populated
areas in the foothills. It was originally in two
stretches: the “lower Alifano" from Naples to Santa Maria
Capua Vetere and then the “upper Alifano” for the
remaining distance to Piedimonte Matese.
The Alifana was
narrow-gauge and was opened in March of 1913 from Naples
to Capua, a distance of 43 kilometers (c. 25 miles). The
finishing touches to Piedimonte d'Alife were then
completed by October 1914. The railway did its job for
decades. The upper line was powered by steam locomotives
and the lower section was electric.
Then, both sections
were heavily damaged in
WW2. The upper line was repaired and restored to
service, but the lower line—the one from piazza Carlo III
in downtown Naples (image, above) — never really came
back, although it geared up again and did provide
important commuter service into the 1970s. At that point,
it could not keep up with demand and simply closed. It
essentially surrendered to cars, buses and the need for
more streets. Since then, many of the stations and
portions of the old right-of-way have been demolished,
built over, paved up, encroached upon, vandalized and
rendered otherwise unusable for the original purposes. (It
is a formidable exercise in so-called “urban archaeology”
to try to trace the old route and find bits and pieces of
stations and track. “By Jove, professor! That’s a piece of
an axle from the old R.305 Henschel engine! And look! That
station is now a McDonald’s parking lot!” )
In the meantime, the
upper line was rebuilt by 1963, going over from steam to
diesel and retooling to the standard national railway
gauge in order to connect to the main Italian rail
network. That made the division between the upper and
lower lines final. The upper line ran and still runs, and
the lower line is a memory. Hopes of ever reopening the
Little-Train-that-Couldn’t are illusory. The need for
rapid rail transportation back and forth between downtown
and the area once served by the lower Alifana will be
partially met when the new Metropolitana is completed;
indeed, it is already possible to get from Secondigliano
(the Piscinola station) into the city (but not yet to the
main train station at Piazza Garibaldi)* by comfortable
modern subway. The builders of that new Metro are now in
their second or third Cheops of construction. A Cheops is
the standard unit of time for building anything in Naples.
One Cheops is equal to the time it took to build the Great
Pyramid.
*update: as of 2014 the main station at Piazza Garibaldi
is complete. See this link.
- - - - - - - - - - - update
July 2023-
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
The Rainbow
Line
Sections of
the "upper line" (noted above) have been reincarnated as
the Napoli–Aversa railway (Italian: Linea
Napoli-Giugliano-Aversa) alias the Rainbow
Line (each station is painted a different color!),
also alias the Alifana bassa, or Line 11).
The Rainbow Line connects Naples with her northern
suburbs; that is, the line connects Naples (Piscinola
station) to the town of Aversa. Only the Piscinola station
(shared with line 1, image, right) is within the city
limits of Naples. Thus, if you want to use public
transport (AAAGGGHHH!) to see these Rainbow
stations (where troubles melt like lemon-drops) get on the
Metro at any station and ask anyone the way to Piscinola?
Reactions will vary, from "Dear God!" to "Sure, in Scampia
-- Fort Apache, the Badlands. That station is the last one
on the Naples Metro and, as well, the first one on the
Rainbow Line, where you board for Aversa. I see a Yellow
Brick Road and a bunch of colors. I suppose at a
certain point, somewhere on that platform, you feel a bit
light-hearted and giggly, and, well, you know...
The first section of the line, between Piscinola and
Mugnano, was opened in 2005. In 2009, the line was
extended from Mugnano to Aversa Centro, with two
intermediate stops in Giugliano and Aversa Ippodromo.
Trains usually travel every 15 minutes, and every 10
minutes during peak hours. The plan is to increase the
number of stations from 5 to 15 (!). Clearly, they want
this thing to be a useful commuter service that people
will use.
[Entries on the
construction of the Metropolitana start here.]