entry
Aug 2011 add: Oct 2015
Mt. Taburno (elev. 1400 m.) and the Taburno massif rise
above the Caudine valley. Montesárchio is the town
visible
in the lower-right
quadrant of the image just at the beginning
of the slopes.
The town is about 40 km/22 miles north-east
of downtown Naples. The Caudine Valley running
east-west
just below the town is of extreme historic interest (see
text).
1. Burial sites containing
metal funerary objects on Mt. Taburno and the area of
modern Montesárchio attest to settlements dating back to
the end of the first Iron Age (c. 900 BC). Later,
beginning around 700 BC, more ornate artifacts, pottery,
coins, and other evidence indicate influences from and
exchanges with the new Greek enclaves along the Italian
coast, i.e. Magna Grecia. The
inhabitants of Taburno were what we now call the Caudine
Samnites, part of the larger Samnite
group.
The site on the slopes
of Mt. Taburno has been fortified from ancient times, and
the modern town is still characterized by a large castle
and an adjacent cylindrical tower (photo, below). They are
positioned strategically on the slopes of the mountain
such that they dominate the approaches to the Caudine
Valley (site of a famous military
encounter between the Romans and the Samnites). (The
Samnite name for their settlement on the slopes was
"Caudium"; the Romans later changed the name to "Mons
Arcis"—thus, "Montesárchio".)
The larger castle is the last in a series
of fortifications that for many centuries guarded the
strategic connection between the Campanian plain and the
Apennine interior. The cylindrical tower on the west side
of the castle and separated from it was obviously built to
be a watch tower of some sort. It is much the older of the
two structures and is probably Samnite in origin. After
the fall of Rome, the Longobards in the 8th century
strengthened the position in order to better withstand the
forces of Charlemagne, and that was what developed into
the large fortress/castle that one sees today. (Such
Longobard defensive measures proved effective since
Charlemagne eventually gave up in his attempts to unite
the entire peninsula.)
After the
Longobards, Montesárchio was then occupied by the Normans (Roger II, founder of the
Kingdom of Sicily) in 1137 and then by Frederick II (early 1200s).
Under the Angevins, Montesárchio was part of the Della
Leonessa fief (1268); in 1460, under the Aragonese, it
passed to the counts of Carafa and then in 1540 to the
princes of d'Avalos. It was under the Aragonese that the
cylindrical tower was restructured into the form evident
today; thus, the term still used today—the "Aragonese
Tower". By the 12th century Montesárchio was a typical
medieval hill-town protected by the older tower, the newer
castle, and a defensive wall. It wasn't until much later
that the populace started to creep down the slopes to where
the modern town of Montesárchio lies.
The Spanish refortified
some of the site in the 1500s, although the major emphasis
of the Spanish viceroys such as Toledo
was on coastal defenses to protect the Bay of Naples,
itself. During the Bourbon rule of Naples in the
mid-1700s, the tower was a prison, and during the Risorgimento held
illustrious "patriot" prisoners such as Carlo Poerio, Nicola Nisco, and
Michele Pironte. During the early years of the 20th
century, the premises were a penitentiary and, later, even
an orphanage. In 1994, the complex was expropriated by the
Ministry of Culture and converted into the National
Archaeological Museum of Caudine Samnium.
Not far
from Montesárchio —out of the Caudine Valley, right around
the corner of the mountain to the north— is a town called
Sant' Agata de' Goti. It blocks entrance from the Volturno
Valley to the Caudine Valley and the highlands in the
interior, which is what it was supposed to do when it was
still a pre-Roman Samnite town called Saticula. It was the
"other" Caudine Samnite fortress town in the area. Samnite
tombs from around 700 BC have been identified. The entire
area, of course, is overlaid with later Roman fragments;
in this area, at least, such remains tend not to be massive and
monumental Roman masonry, but Roman roadbeds, some tombs
and a few rustic farmhouses.
The strange
name, Sant' Agata de'
Goti,("of the Goths") does not
derive from the Gothic presence in Italy in the 6th
century, but rather from De Goth, the name of the French family
that received it in fief from Robert of Anjou in the
1300s.
2.
add. Oct 2015
...and up on top of the massif is...

The Regional Nature Park of Taburno-Camposauro
Yes, folks, it is just this
idyllic!
The
Taburno massif evident above Montesarchio in the photo at
the top of this page has since 2002 formed the Regional
Nature Park of Taburno-Camposauro. It extends for about
12,000+ hectares (30,000 acres/47 sq. miles) over most of
the massif to include the other principle peaks,
Camposauro (1388 m), Alto Rotondi (1305 m), Sant'Angelo
(1189 m) and Pentime (1170 m). The total population of the
14 inhabited centers within the park premises is 25,000.
The area is of considerable interest from the point of
view of flora and fauna; historical interest (it was an Oscan-Samnite stronghold in the
days when Rome was still warring with competing tribes for
the control of Italy; and geological interest —the massif is
limestone and hosts a number of grottoes such as San
Simeone and San Mauro, both of which have served as "cave churches" as well as
emergency shelters for shepherds throughout the
centuries and even bomb shelters in WWII.
It is a marvelous place to go hiking. The park publishes
an extensive list of available hiking trails, all with
names such as Trail of the Mills, the Bandits, Wine,
etc. The lists carry (in Italian) descriptions of the
trails and downloadable handy maps. That list off-site at
this link.
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