© Jeff
Matthews entry Aug 2013, updates Aug
2022
Two Letters
from the Alburni Mts.
from August 2013
mid-August — Somewhere
near the Alburni Massif! (Love those wartime headlines!)
letter 1.
Not having
air to breathe is bad, but having no internet connection
is unbearable! No email, Facebook, Twitter, Tumblr,
YouTube, Google — none of your 500 "friends" whom you
have never met and would never like in the real world,
anyway, where words such as "like" and "friend" have
ordinary traditional meanings. (In my own experience, I
own up to three counter-examples: J., L., and W. — I
have never met them but I like them and they are my
friends.) No electronic gimmicks to distract you from
the inside of your own head — just books, but who reads
those things anymore?
(OK, I got carried away the other day and read one of
Mark Twain's stories, A Dog's Tale. The first
sentence was "My father was a St. Bernard, my mother was
a Collie, but I am a Presbyterian." That single
sentence. alone, will pretty much get you through hard
times with your humor intact! Of course, the rest is sad
and depressing and Mark Twain. Then, I read his A
Double Barreled Detective in which Sherlock Holmes
is revealed to be a nincompoop. At least that's a happy
ending. I don't know, but I wonder if Mark Twain and
Arthur Conan Doyle ever met. I imagine they would not
have gotten along, especially if the gullible
supernaturalist Conan Doyle had tried to convince MT of
the existence of fairies and mediums.
The collapse of Information Technology happened
late Saturday evening and is still going on, now
Wednesday morning, which is why you have not heard from
me (on the long-shot that you were expecting to hear
from me!). Our side of the Alburni mountains is at the
foot of the northern flank of peaks (photo, above) that
overlooks the Paestum plain and then away to the city of
Salerno at the other end of the gulf. That part of the
Alburni got slammed by a tremendous thunderstorm: strong
winds, heavy sustained rain, abundant lightning (some of
it very close—no "bolts" of lightning; the world just
flashes blinding white for a second, all around you).
There was enough juice in the air to reanimate dead body
parts, and in keeping with that spirit, I shouted
"IT'S ALIVE! IT'S ALIVE!" and started thumping some old
geezer at the next table on the chest. Actually, I
shouted, "IT'S FRIED, THE WI-FI IS FRIED!" There was
also a sudden drop in temperature and, worst of all, a
heavy hailstorm with stones the size of marbles and even
golf-balls. I still have not seen soft-balls or
grapefruits. I hear tell they exist. I think there must
be a ranking among "hail stories" the way there is with
"fish stories". "Oh, 'bout yay long" (hands held a
ridiculously large distance apart) becomes "Oh, 'bout
yay big" (thumb and index finger touch and round to form
a ridiculously large OK sign) until you have ice
watermelons falling from the skies, as made manifest in
some grossly distended index fingers and thumbs. But I
still stand by "marbles and golf-balls.")
The dining room at our farm/inn has
an outdoor adjacent terrace, a rectangular space about 15
yards long by 5 wide, fitted out with wooden tables and
chairs for those who want to sit outdoors in the summer
evenings. The floor is attractive stonework, and the frame
of this "open enclosure" is solid timber and roofed over
with ceramic, corrugated plastic and mats of cane that
join to the main building and provide a passageway
beneath. The space is set three or four feet above the
gardens and there is a wrought iron fence and railing at
the tables to keep you from toppling off. The roof took a
very loud beating from the hail, a sustained concert from
the world's loudest and worst drummer. The worst part of
the hail was the damage to the crops of assorted
vegetables and fruits planted around the premises:
tomatoes, peppers, apples, etc., most of it ruined. The
large Mulberry tree on the grounds did not take a direct
lightning strike, but the next morning most of the leaves
had holes in them from the hail, as if the tree had been
withered by gigantic shotgun blasts of ice. The
pyrotechnics and hail lasted a solid 30 minutes, and the
rain went on for an hour or so afterward. (I remember that
the monkey chased the weasel round and round the mulberry
BUSH, but I looked it up and it's a tree. Besides, who are
you going to believe —a monkey, a weasel or me?)
The
next day and again today, things are back to normal,
which is warm and humid but not truly hot, as it was
before the storm. Modern electronics has not kept pace
with the return to normal of the weather. The friendly
folks at the local Italian Telecom station apparently
took a direct lightning strike and are soldering things
back together. When they have finished that, you'll have
this message. But you never know; shades of The
Magic Mountain —come for a week and stay for seven
years. I don't find myself running around the way I did
last summer here in the same place. It's not that I saw
everything I wanted to see last year, it's just that I
feel a lot slower this time around. I did get a few
additions for my website, speaking of infernal
information technology.
Of which,
there is still no internet, so I read The Mysterious
Stranger, instead. I recall an English critic
commenting that "It was not at all amiable." Critics are
so astute! imagine, Mark Twain having a less than
"amiable" view of the human condition. Tomorrow is
August 15, Ferragosto, the deadest day of the
year. Everyone is on vacation except some TV reporters
who stay at their posts diligently and report on people
who are on vacation. Do not get sick or have an accident
tomorrow. If you are going to have a medical emergency,
today is the last day for that. I think the same is true
of Information Technology. If the man is going to come,
he might come today, but not tomorrow.
Oops. He's here! He'll
be back in a hour with the right stuff. Hooray!
2.
Sunday, August 25, 2013
We
are now near Paestum, just a fart and a snap down the
road from where Herman Chanowitz
landed in Operation Avalanche, the Allied invasion of Salerno in
September, 1943. He pitched his pup tent in a Greek
temple. He says she protected him. I said, "Herman, how
do you know it wasn't the temple to Jupiter?" He said,
"When it's your war, you can tell it your way."
Not a bad
morning at the beach, nice
and peaceful for about 25 minutes, until the slightly
post-pubescent morons hired by the hotel who are what
they call "animators" in Italian got hold of a mike and
loudspeaker and cranked up James Brown's "I Feel Goooooood!"
They turned the speakers toward the sea so that only the
swimmers got "animated" at full blast. I was merely
stunned by the volume, but some fish were not so lucky,
even in the water. The floated to the top, dead. They
(not the fish) have decided that no one wants peace and
quiet anymore (forget good music). It's an old story
going back to the insidious early days of Muzak and
"elevator music". You will never be alone. It could be
worse —out
and out party slogans as in a good old East German
summer camp song. (James Brown is marginally better than
Walter Ulbricht singing the "Fulfill Your Quota Blues."
I know, I know, you don't remember that one. I quit the
beach and went to the pool. Tough choices all around,
these days. Times are tough.
We head back
tomorrow. It just rained. Grey weather. I am tempted to
skip the afternoon pool session. I won't make the team
anyway. I know! I'll while away the rest of the day
humming melancholy patches of September Song.
You may know that the music to September Song is
by Kurt Weill, the German (then naturalized U.S.
citizen) composer most known for his collaboration with
Bertolt Brecht. Now that you know that, I suppose
you might say, "Yes, it's a beautiful melody, but not
quite like a great US pop song from the 30s and 40s. It
sounds sort of European." Maybe. So does Speak Low,
another of Weill's hit tunes. (But maybe I
wouldn't say that if I hadn't known it beforehand.)
The lyrics to September Song are by Maxwell
Anderson. I knew a lot of items on the very long
list of things he wrote (d. in 1958) — many screen plays
— but I did not associate his name with any of them.
Word guys get short shrift (!) in the attribution
business. He wrote his own epitaph (which he adapted
from a quotation from the Venerable Bede:*
Children
of dust astray among the stars
Children
of earth adrift upon the night
What is
there in our darkness or our light
To linger
in prose or claim a singing breath
Save the
curt history of life isled in death
*probably the passage
where Bede says we are like a
bird that flutters into a lighted room, briefly,
and then
flutters back out into the dark.
Look how
similar that is to his eulogy for his friend Kurt
Weill.
This
is the life of men on earth:
Out of darkness we
come at birth
Into a lamplit room,
and then –
Go forward into dark
again.
An excerpt from Maxwell Anderson's eulogy for Weill
reads:
"I wish, of course, that he had been lucky enough to
have had a little more time for his work. I could wish
the times
in which he lived had been less troubled. But these
things were as they were – and Kurt managed to make
thousands
of beautiful things during the short and troubled time
he had."
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