© Jeff
Matthews entry July 2015
The Amalfi
Drive – Beauty
and the Beast
The beauty is evident. Karst geology
provides us with some of the best that nature has to
offer: limestone caverns, stalactites and stalagmites
on the inside and the magnificent irregularities of
karst mountains and cliffs on the outside. The
Dolomites in northern Italy are among the most famous
examples. (There are a few "lesser Dolomites" in
Campania, such as the Alburni
massif.) One of the characteristics of karst
landforms is that there is an extensive flow of
underground water. That is where the beast comes in.
Karst landforms are unstable over long periods of
time. That big hole in the middle of the adjacent
photo used to be all underground; part of it simply
collapsed. (There is also a smaller collapsed grotto
visible, center left.) That was a long time ago, but
these days the slow calendars of geology and those of
folks who build hotels and roads occasionally overlap.
Then you've got problems.
The area in the photo is along the Amalfi Drive (State
Road 163) at a point 2.5 km (1.5 miles) from
Amalfi (to the right in this
photo). There are another 30 km or so to the left (SW)
at water's edge along the western shore of the gulf of
Salerno before 163 cuts up and over the peninsula and
drops down onto the Sorrento plain on the Gulf of
Naples. Most of the road along the Amalfi coast is
similar to what you see here—spectacular and
potentially dangerous. The Amalfi Drive passes
directly above the prominent Hotel Saraceno (white
building in the middle). If you had taken the turn-off
on your way out from Amalfi about a mile back, you
would have been on the panoramic state road 366 that
climbs up and runs along where those buildings on top
are situated. From sea-level up to those buildings is
200+meters (600+ feet); thus, that gaping grotto looks
to be about 50 meters high. The entire coast is
sprinkled with (I almost said “littered with”)
beautiful hotels. They all cost an arm and a leg, but
at least they'll be clean arms and legs, having been
bathed and pampered in outdoor pools overlooking the
cobalt blue of the Tyrrhenian Sea. Yes, it is that
lovely.
A
special Commission appointed by the Campania Region in
2011 issued an alarming report (Relazione Generale Intervento
n.10 della deliberazione CIPE n.8/2012 del
20.01.2012-Codice Istat 95 dell'Allegato 1 A.P.Q.
Difesa Suolo). The report divides the entire Amalfi drive
into three sections. The area in the photo is in
section 3, from Conca dei Marini (the houses
on top) and then the rest of the coast running back to
Amalfi. All parts of the road have similar problems.
Road 163 runs below sheer 100-meter-high karst cliffs
that in places are so severely fractured that they are
always in danger of collapsing...collapsing
right onto the road and passing cars. That is the main
concern. The situation below the road is less dramatic
but dangerous nevertheless, as the photo on the left
shows; that is, indeed, the relatively small slide
that clipped the cute little tower at water's edge in
the top photo a few years ago. There have been a
half-dozen such slides since 2007. If you live up on
top along the 366, well, nothing is going to fall on you,
but you might fall on someone else. Yes, it
is that dangerous.
So, what can you do? There is no single solution, but
rather a panoply of fixes that include (“but are not
limited to", as my lawyer friends say):
-
knocking off loose bits. That really works, and in
similar situations in smaller environments, can be
quite effective. In some places, they even hire
“rock knockers”—persons lowered down from above who
then scramble along and poke down the loose pieces
of rock. Most of the sections on the Amalfi Drive,
however, would require large special cranes to do
the job.
- Nets
and webs of metal held in place by cables. Those are
all over Italy. They are ugly, but effective;
- Sealing sections with
hosed-on concrete. It gives a solid, smooth effect
right out of a Water Fun Park but it works;
- Masonry. Brick some
sections up;
- Put up barriers to
stop and hold material that loosens and falls.
These are all over the place, as well. Clearly
they work best on slopes and not sheer vertical
drops such as are found in many places along the
Amalfi Drive;
- Various combinations
of “ties” (that is, structural components designed
to resist tension—straps, tie rods,
eyebars, guy-wires, etc. Here, we note the
importance of “natural ties” such as the great
amount of vegetation along the 163, both
cultivated as well as simple brush growing on
slopes and even right out of the cracks in the
cliff face (both kinds are evident in the large
photo). Vegetation helps to control rain run-off
and also "anchors" sections of the soil and rock
in place, thus increasing the structural integrity
of any given section of the road. Conversely, even
a small brush fire in the wrong place will destroy
vegetation and decrease that integrity. Thus, we
are looking at a piece-by-piece solution—fit the
solution to the particular problem at hand. As you
move along the coast these days, there are always
people juggling different little solutions to the
problem. Let's hope that it's all part of a
coordinated plan.
When I
took that photo at the top of page some years ago,
I remember cracking wise about the “optimists who
live up there on top of that hole.” Poor taste on
my part, I admit. So, by all means, if you are one
of those bathing and being pampered in your
poolside paradise, enjoy it. On the other hand, if
are driving the coast in the summer time, take the
high road. If you are driving the low-road, forget
the incompetence of other drivers and note the
signs like the one shown here. Other drivers are
the least of your problems.
Addendum: (That is, I
forgot...) I wondered aloud to friend and geologist,
Peter H., if that big hole (above) had ever been at
sea-level, maybe been a sea-grotto. (We have a lot of
those on the Tyrrhenian, one of the most famous of
which is just a few yards off the left side of the
photo —to wit, the so-called Emerald Grotto of Conca
dei Marini; it is partially inundated with sea
water, producing a cavern roof about 24 meters above
water level. It produces spectacular colors and is
one of the tourist attractions along the coast.
Unlike many sea grottoes, there is no natural
opening above the water line. You can't just duck
your head while your faithful man-servant rows you
through. You can scuba in, if they let you, or use
the very unnatural elevator that will take you down
from above.) Peter commented on the elevation of the
large grotto in the photo and opined that it was
more likely due to the fact the whole thing is
sitting atop the major tectonic collision and crunch
going on below, indeed the very one that produced
(and is still producing) the Apennine mountain range
that runs the length of Italy. It has a large number
of local off-shoots on both sides. The one in the
photo is called the Lattari range. (Most call it the
"Sorrentine peninsula".) Note the word "tectonic".
Right, I forget to mention earthquakes! Any rocky
area subject to extreme fracturing anyway, as is the
whole length of coast along the 163, is also subject
to additional peril from earthquakes. Much of Italy
is prone to quakes. The last "big one" in this area
was 1980, the so-called "Irpinia
Quake". It was a magnitude 6.9 centered in the
province of Avellino at a point about 65 km/40 miles
to the east of Amalfi. It was felt all over the area
and certainly along the 163. This, just in
case you needed something else to worry about.