These items appeared separately in the original version of the Around Naples Encyclopedia on the dates indicated. They have been consolidated onto a single page here. There are 12 items.
1.
The city of Naples, in its
never-ending quest to bring art to the masses and
especially to the masses who ride the subway to work, is
not just going to spruce up the soon-to-be-finished
university station at Monte Sant'Angelo with a few
paintings or statues or even bronzed old jalopies disguised as
installation art. They have hired British/Indian artist
Anish Kapoor to turn the entire station, itself, into a
work of art. The station will be among the deepest in
Italy (about 40 meters) and—well, the area is in the Phlegrean Fields, not far from the
mythological descent into Hades— so, says Kapoor: "We want
to create the impression of a Dantean descent into the
underworld." No one seems to know exactly what that means,
and few are in a hurry to find out. It's hell getting to
work, anyway.
Neapolitans are most familiar with Kapoor from his gigantic site sculpture, Taratantara, originally created for the new Gateshead's Baltic Centre for Contemporary Arts in England in 1999, but then set up in Piazza Plebiscito (photo) in Naples in December of 2000 as that year's contribution to the annual exposition of installation art. The title is meant to be echoic of the sound made by a trumpet fanfare, as in Roman poet Quintus Ennius' line, "At tuba terribili sonitu taratantara dixit" — ("But the trumpet sounded with its terrible taratantara", the onomatopoeia usually left untranslated). Indeed, the sculpture suggests two funnel-like trumpet bells joined and flaring out to both ends, something like those strange geometric figures that scientists use to describe what sort of transdimensional hyperspace thing (a technical term!) we shall have to traverse if we ever hope to reach the stars. Taratantara was made of a shiny red membrane, glittered in the sun, was about 50 meters long, 20 high and was anchored in Piazza Plebiscito by steel columns at each end. While it was up, the columns were scaled by demonstrators. They weren't out to damage the sculpture, and didn't, but the offices of the Naples Prefecture bounds the north side of the square and that's always a good place to have a demonstration.
I am reminded of a clipping
I read once in the paper:
An English art student's work was thrown out, literally, after an official at a Birmingham art center mistook it for trash from the opening day party. Ceri Davie's "Piece de Resistance" involved red jellies displayed on plates and was intended as a metaphor of decay. ‘Months of hard work had just gone to waste,’ the artist said. "I was quite horrified."
Very few of us realize the
tough row that artists have to hoe in dealing with
Philistines such as that art center official. This is
probably because practical hoes weren’t even invented
until the Middle Ages. As far as we know, the Philistines
just got down on all fours and grubbed their rows into
shape with their hands.
Many years before the Decadent Red Jelly affair referred to above, one of the artist’s earlier works, Empty Paper Picnic Plate —which consisted of an empty paper picnic plate— was not all well received by critics, who found the title too hard to say five times real fast and who also mistook "empty paper" as a metaphor of life instead of a Minimalist description of paper picnics, the plate itself being just a secondary, but sardonic, appliquè —which was just as well, since it too was given the old heave-ho. Fortunately (maybe), it was saved, since the art center official who tossed it, threw it into what he thought was a trash bin, but which, in fact, was also past of the art show.
And then there was the
artist’s Hamburger, those little pointillist
nibbles of semi-conceptualist cholesterol-laden ground
Bœuf, a yummy but still youthful version of her later,
futuristic, Quarter-Pounder With Cheese, in which
patrons of the art show were required to flip burgers in
the kitchen, then ask themselves in the drive-through
microphone if they “would like fries with that?” and then
—ah, the stochastic power of it all!— eat or not eat the
work of art! How was the artist to know that they had
scheduled the exhibit in the same hall as a dog show? It
was to her credit as a resourceful master of Performance
Art that she retitled the whole thing, Gone to the
Dogs, A Metaphor. (Or Maybe It’s a Simile).
Davies is not the only artist who has had this trouble. Fortunately, I am in the possession of a section of the diary of Michelangelo (the National Library knows nothing about this):
January 8, 1504. Dear diary. I’m ruined. After years of work in chipping away the pieces, I have finally figured out where beauty is, and it’s not in chubby women with smiling faces. I busted my hump on this one, too! (Alas, even in a society where males with humps are considered good omens, there is not much use for a sculptor with a busted one, I’m afraid.)I'll see your metafour and raise you five.
I spent three years on this! A veritable mountain of chips, shards, bits, detritus, little stone chunks lying where they fell, all at different odd angles, each one with a special metaphor to it, deconstructing, as it were, the sordid and complex confusion of our times. And in stone!—in Carrara marble as eternal as the plots, counter-plots and intrigues that surround us. I was going to call it something like Plots, Counter-Plots and Intrigues. (Ok, I hadn’t given it that much thought, yet.) I figured it was about time someone put it all into permanent artistic form. Why paint anymore?! The colors will just fade and then someone will come along and invent cartoonists and hire one to touch up my Sistine Chapel with paint-by-the-numbers Day-Glo!
So I finish it and leave it outside. Where else am I going to keep it, in my living room? This morning it’s gone. Those morons took the waste rock and put it on display! ‘It looks just like a boy with a slingshot. Cool!’ they said. And my work of art? ‘Oh, that crap? We threw it away,’ they said.
I was talking about this with Leonardo From Vinci (man, what a one-horse burg that dump is!). He has strung an invention of his, a ‘talk gizmo’ between his house and mine —two ceramic cups and a very long thread. It works all right, except that since our houses are many miles apart, communication breaks down when Tuscan peasant women somewhere in between start hanging laundry on the line. He says he’s working on a very long thread on a spool, which would actually let you converse as you walk around the street. Like I’m going to hold my breath waiting for that one. He asked me what I was doing wasting my time with rocks, anyway, when I could be building things he called ‘aeroplanes’. He told me he was undecided about what to paint on the part he called the ‘fuselage’ —an eagle carrying lightning bolts in its talons or a chubby women with a smiling face. I suggested a smiling woman holding lightning bolts. He was not amused. A weird man, Leo. Frankly, I don’t think the old geezer is playing with a round boccie ball, anymore.
The large and spacious square between the main façade of the Royal Palace and the Church of San Francesco di Paola is Piazza del Plebiscito. It is ideally suited for outdoor concerts, street musicians, jugglers, and large groups of tourists to shuffle nervously as they are efficiently herded from statue to statue by stray dogs.
The square also lends
itself to modern sculpture of the kind that art critics
call "installation art" and the rest of us rustic dullards
call, "What in the world is that supposed to be?!"
Generally speaking, installation art requires some —well,
installation— something in the way of mounting, draping,
hanging, digging or soldering. The displays, themselves,
may include ("...but are not limited to...," as lawyers so
craftily hedge) metal, wood, plastic, rubber, and assorted
minerals, fabrics and liquids.
And so, in
past years, Piazza del Plebiscito has seen a gigantic
mountain of salt dotted with pieces of machinery,
apparently a metaphor of whatever it is that salt
represents confronted with whatever it is that machinery
represents —maybe life beset by technology. (Hey, not such
a "rustic dullard" now, huh?!) Then, one year, there was a
large wooden replica of an ancient lighthouse that used to
guard the harbor of Naples. Last year, there was a
gigantic replica of the Angevin Fortress made entirely of
soft-drink cans (photo). These exhibits go up in early
December and are left in place for the Christmas holidays,
at which time they are "uninstalled". Most of them are
environmentally friendly enough to be dismantled easily
or, in some case, vacuumed up.
In December 2002, they tore up the
paving stones in the square. According to the paper, no
one in the city administration recalls giving the go-ahead
for any of this digging, but the latest piece of ephemeral
sculpture was duly installed. It is a work by German
sculptor and film maker, Rebecca Horn. Her history
includes mechanical and body-extension sculpture as well
as installation art on the premises of an insane asylum in
Vienna. Austria. Her work is often controversial.
The work consisted of a number of bronze skulls implanted in the pavement (photo). The work, thus, is Horn's tribute to, or variation on, the well-known Neapolitan "cult of death" (so-called by some) that centers on the vast collection of human skulls on the premises of the Fontanelle cemetery in Naples. The work is "site specific," a sub-genre of installation art, in that it makes sense only within the context of the place where it is exhibited, in this case, Naples.
The Fontanelle cemetery is carved
out of the tufaceous hillside in the Materdei section of
Naples. The vast chambers on the premises served for
centuries as a charnel house for paupers. At the end of
the 19th century, Father Gaetano Barbati had the
chaotically buried skeletal remains disinterred and
cataloged. They then remained on the surface, stored in
makeshift crypts, in boxes and on wooden racks. From that
moment, a spontaneous cult of affection for, and devotion
to, the remains of these unnamed dead developed in Naples.
Defenders of the cult pointed out that they were paying
respect to those who had had none in life, who had been
too poor even to have a proper burial. Though the practice
has largely disappeared, devotees used to pay visits to
the skulls, clean them —"adopt" them— giving
the skulls back their "living" names (revealed to the
caretakers in dreams). Yes, all that.

In the church of Purgatorio dell'Arco
The display of skulls gives the
whole thing a resemblance to the memento mori.
This Latin phrase means "Remember you must die". As a
noun, it thus means "a reminder of death". Historically,
it recalls the slaves whose job it was in ancient Rome to
ride in the chariot beside Conquering Hero and whisper
that single killjoy phrase ("Remember you must die") in
his ear, just to keep Hero from believing his own press
releases. In a Christian context, the "memento mori" plays
a significant part in Neapolitan iconography. It is seen
as a reminder to live the kind of life that will be judged
worthy when that time comes. The courtyard of the museum of San Martino
(an ex-monastery) displays carvings of skulls prominently,
and a few churches in Naples have depictions of them
on the façades or within, most notably, the Church of Purgatorio ad Arco
on via Tribunali.
As grisly as it may seem to
outsiders, the Fontanelle cemetery is less a reminder of
death than it is a popular manifestation of the desire to
show affection for those who had so little of it in life.
The point, then, of the work of art in Piazza Plebiscito
dedicated to that bit of Neapolitan history is perhaps to
connect the city a bit to its past, to its unusual, even
bizarre, traditions, especially at this time of
year. Some have welcomed the display, sight unseen,
as a way to force one to shake off, even for a moment, the
great mid-December haze of globalized Christmas kitsch.
After all, what better way to remember the birth of the
Saviour than with Bing Crosby singing "White Christmas" as
he stands with his reindeer in the traditional Neapolitan
manger scene, the presepe, with the Holy Family,
the Three Wise Men, and the Redeemed Grinch, all of whom
are watching the colorized version of It's a Wonderful
Life on a new broadband palm computer? (Sigh. I've
seen that one. The movie, too.)
[Also see "Memento vivere", a
painting.]
3.
This
year's ritual installation of art in Piazza
Plebiscito features a work entitled "Naples," by the
master of massive minimalism, San Francisco artist Richard
Serra (1939-). It is a large spiral (already called
"Contraception of the Gods" by those who view with some
disdain the city's unabashed dedication to this kind of
display). Entering into the giant orange sculpture of
curved and bending steel plates, you spiral in, leaning in
and out with the curves of the walls, to the center, where
you can look up and see the clock tower on the facade of
the royal palace (see photo and insert). Your perception
as you navigate the deceptive geometry of this small,
tilted space set in the larger space of the square,
itself, is what gives validity to the work, says the
artist. Clearly, to be a private experience —to be at all
touched by the suggested metaphor of yourself in a
similarly skewed private life-space set in the space of
the world at large— the wandering in and out is best done
slowly and alone and not as part of a curious herd
elbowing their way in and out, unless, of course, you
spend much of your time elbowing your way through life
wondering what it's all about. That, too, is possible.
It has been
ten years since the city of Naples started adorning
the vast Piazza Plebiscito with examples of "Installation
Art", exhibits of various kinds put in place in December
and then taken down after the holiday season. Some of
these works have evoked bewilderment in the eye of the
beholder. Or hostility. Or admiration. That of, course, is
what such art is meant to do: spin a web of extended
discourse around itself, made up of people's reactions,
which themselves become part of the answer to that nagging
question: "What in the world is that supposed to be?" Such
works in the last decade in Naples have included Mimmo
Paladino's "Salt Mountain," Anish Kapoor's "Taratantara"
(#1, above), and Rebecca Horn's exhibit of bronze skulls,
"Spirits of Mother of Pearl," embedded in the pavement
itself (#2, above).
For
some reason, there will be no exposition of
installation art at Piazza Plebiscito this year. I've just
been down there and it is bone-bare, unless, of course,
Christo has managed to install a gigantic sculpture of
thin air of emptiness hanging over the entire square,
called Thin Air of
Emptiness. On the other chisel, the on-going
shoring-and-sprucing up of the Galleria
Umberto may be viewed as installation art, of sorts.
I call it Shoring-and-Sprucing
Up of the Galleria Umberto (photo, right). Alas,
this means that there will be no large Christmas
Wishing Tree this year on the premises. Come back in
Twenty-oh-Nine.
I spoke too
soon when I said there would be no installation art
at Piazza del
Plebiscito this winter. They put it up a bit
later than they normally do, and I didn't check back. This
year's artist is Jan
Fabre (b. 1958 in Antwerp, Belgium). He is
described as "multidisciplinary"; he is a playwright,
stage director, choreographer and stage designer. He also
founded the Troubleyn theater company in Antwerp in 1986.
Fabre has recently exhibited at the Louvre in Paris. His
exhibit at Piazza del
Plebiscito consists of five bronze sculptures,
some of which have previously been shown individually in
public spaces elsewhere. Thus, while the positions of the
"parts" in the square no doubt mean something, the "whole"
is not technically "site-specific" (that is, not made
specifically and only for this square in Naples, say, in
the sense of Rebecca Horn's Skulls a few years ago—#2, above). The
five sculptures are: The
man who measures the clouds (1998); The man who gives fire
(or...with a light)
(1999); The man who
cries and laughs (2005);The astronaut who directs the sea
(2006); and The man who
writes on water (2006).
The
pieces are all of brilliantly polished bronze and are
life-sized; they are set around the large semicircular piazza in front of
the church of San Francesco di Paola (background, photo on
right); ...cries and
laughs (photo, above) and ...writes on water
(photo, right) are in the main portion of the square; ...gives fire (below,
left) is off to the side; ...measures the clouds (not shown) is
actually atop the far-left half of the colonnade of the
church; and ...astronaut
who directs the sea (not shown) is not in the
square at all, but on a balcony of the Royal Palace, which
faces the square. Currently (as you can see in these
photos), the entire display is cluttered by scaffolding
and bleachers being set up for the New Year's Eve
celebration.
I say
"clutter," but maybe it's part of the display.
You never know with installation art. In the pompous
vocabulary of art critics (cue professorial
throat-clearing...ahem...),
such displays are meant to interact with the viewing
public and invite comments, comments that then become part
of the "extended discourse" of the work, itself. In the
case of Fabre's display, the morning after it went up,
there was a single car parked directly next to the
centerpiece, The man
who cries and laughs (top photo); it is in the
center of the square and shows a man atop a pedestal,
facing the royal palace. His facial expression, as the
name implies, shows laughter and crying at the same time.
You are invited to interpret that as you wish. (That is,
he is holding a book in his left hand, so maybe he's a
student or, even worse, a scholar. He is staring at the
grand Royal Palace and smiling at the centuries of culture
therein contained; he is also crying because Naples is in
such a mess. That sort of thing. That is only my own
"extended discourse." Feel free to extend your own. Maybe
we can throw a few punches.) The lone car in the morning
hours was interpreted by passers-by in various ways: (1)
It's part of the work; (2) It's the world's cleverest
example of illegally parking a car, since the owner knows
that people will think the vehicle is part of the work and
leave it alone.
This
year’s “installation art” at Piazza Plebiscito was supposed
to open yesterday, but there was an unspecified technical
hitch; thus, we’ll have to wait a few days to see “Pioneer
II.” It is an example of what is called “sound art” or
“Cymatics” —the visualization of sound; that is, seeing
the patterns caused, say, in sand or in a liquid, by sound
vibrations. This physical link between the heard and the
seen has interested a number of artists. You can test the
effect by covering your Stradivarius with flour and
starting to play. You see pretty pattens in the flour as
it is “excited” by the sound—just as you are excited by
the sudden drop in the value of your fiddle. This year’s
artist is Carsten
Nicolai (b. 1965, Karl-Marx-Stadt, Germany). He
has installed three large balloons moored with metal
cylinders in the square (photo, right). The balloons are
equipped with internal light sources and are
electronically linked to motion detectors on Mount
Vesuvius. Rumbles at the volcano are translated into
audible pitch and run through loud speakers set up in the
square. The effect of that sound causes something to
happen to the balloons, but I don't know what. The purpose
of it all is to show how intimately the city is linked to
the volcano. So, if the metaphorical "balloon" at Vesuvius
really does "go up" next week, I think the physical artsy
balloons, too, will really go up like crazy and explode.
So far, the cylinders are all you see. The exhibit will be
in place through Jan 12. Art is hell.
OK,
art is only heck. Except for the ongoing stink about how
much money was spent on this fiasco, the crisis has been
overcome by the installation of three "volcanoes of light"
in place of the three large balloons. The physical set-up
is almost identical; that is, there are now three large
cylinders representing Vesuvius (and his two twin
brothers?) in the square. At night you can enjoy the light
display over the rims of the "volcanoes." The display is
accompanied by volcano-ey rumbles of sound effects. At
night, that is. Interesting point: this particular work of
installation art is "site specific" (that is, the theme is
bound to a particular place, in this case, our local
volcano). That is not uncommon for installation art
(Rebecca Horn's 2002 display in Naples was another
example—#2, above). But
this one is also time-of-day specific; you can only see it
at night. If you know nothing of the display and walk
across Piazza Plebiscito on a bright sunny day and see
only the cylinders, you will no doubt work out some
plausible interpretation of what it all means. This, of
course, will have nothing to do with volcanoes. Not to
fret —in the parlance of modern art criticism, your
interpretation then becomes part of the "extended
discourse" on, of, around and about the work. Feel better?
This
year's "installation art" is significantly
different than most of the displays since they were first
started over a decade ago in Naples. For the first time,
the display will not be set up in Piazza Plebiscito. This
is (1) bad in that not as many people will see it but (2)
good in that there is much less chance of damage,
accidental or otherwise, to the installation from
Christmas and New Year's revelers. Also, the display will
be "site specific" (much like Rebecca Horn's "skulls"
exhibit—#2, above—from some years ago). This year, the
venue will be the Piazza dei Martire,
the monument column in that square includes four statues
of lions at the base. The display could be set up nowhere
else since it consists of six life-sized fiber-glass
replicas of one of the originals, the "prowling" lion by Tommaso Solari. The
replicas have just stepped off their monument pedestal,
symbolizing, according to the artist, a "reawakening" of
the city. The installation is the work of Neapolitan
artist, Nadia Magnacca
(b.1958). She has a degree in biological sciences and has
studied and taught photography; since the early 1990s she
has exhibited photography and audio-visual displays
throughout Europe. That she is a local artist, while not
unique, is the exception rather than the rule for these
exhibits of installation art in Naples. Maybe that's a
good sign, too.