The Old Crossroads of Santa
Chiara
This image is a small portion of the Lafrery map of 1566. It
appeared in Un Angolo di Napoli (A Corner of
Naples) by Benedetto Croce,
published in Bari in 1912 by Giuseppe Laterza & Sons.
Legend
1. Church and monastery of S. Chiara
2. S. Francesco delle monache (nuns)
3. Palazzo of the Prince of Bisignano
4. Church of S. Martha
5. Palazzo and garden of the Prince of Salerno
6. Home of Berardino Rota
7. Home of Antonio Epicuro
8. Monastery of S. Sebastiano
9. Church and monastery of S. Pietro a Maiella
10.Church of S. Domenico
This
is kind of tricky, even if you know Naples and are
familiar with the modern layout of the city. The
image is presented in the orientation of the
original Laffrery map; that is, north is not
directly at the top but rather at the "one
o'clock" position. Thus, the one-to-seven o'clock
street is today's via San Sebastiano at
the top, changing to via Santa Chiara at
the intersection and proceeding south as it runs
by the monastery wall. That street was where the
old pre-Spanish city wall ran (meaning before the
mid-1500s). Once you passed the wall, you were in
the old Greco-Roman city, today called the Historic Center. The
other street, running west (ten o'clock) to east
is today's via Benedetto Croce. At that
intersection, the belfry
on the corner is still quite prominent
today. That entire street, although it changes
names along its considerable length is referred to
popularly as "Spaccanapoli," (Naples splitter).
|
|
Obviously,
a few things have changed in the last 450 years. Number 8
is an interesting example. It is labeled 'Monastery of S.
Sebastiano'. Indeed, it was one of the oldest
paleo-Christian buildings in Naples. The entrance was on
that street. In the 1700s, however, the Bourbons converted
the market place behind it into an important
square, known as Piazza Dante
today. The old monastery became a music conservatory for a
few years in the early 1800s, but is now a high school
with the entrance on Piazza Dante. The old entrance is now
the back door. If you move just up the street and turn the
corner to the right onto the street named via
dei Tribunali today, you find number 9, the
church and monastery of S. Pietro a Maiella. The church is
still a church. The monastery is the current music conservatory. In using this
map, Croce might have chosen to include some other
structures but did not because they were really not part
of the crossroads, the "corner" of Naples he was writing
about. One would be the church of Gesù Nuovo (a very short
distance to the west - left - of #5); the large empty
white space in the upper left quadrant of the image is
today's large Piazza del Gesù Nuovo, which existed at the
time the map was made, but without the imposing spire in the
middle, erected in 1750. And if you turn and walk back to
east on that road, you find, at #10, the church of San
Domenico. That building today forms the western side of
the large Piazza di San Domenico
Maggiore where the large church of that name as well
as another tall votive spire are found. Lesser known today
are the names that appear at #6 and #7; Berardino Rota
(1508-1575) was a wealthy nobleman and man of letters,
whose home was somewhat the center of activities of the
Neapolitan literati of the day; Antonio Epicuro is
referenced in sources as a "humanist from the Abruzzi" who
at a certain point moved south to Naples. He wrote in both
Latin and Neapolitan and his plays are important in the
history of what is called pastoral drama. Croce knew this
area extremely well. He would, some centuries later, spend
most of life living and working at #3, today the Italian Institute for Historical
Studies.
[The graphics portal - link below - has
other maps.]
to
graphics portal
to top of this page