The Belle Époque, a Café-Chantant, Fin
de Siècle and
Thou (or Elvira Donnarumma) beside me, singing in the
Salone Margherita.
Today, I snuck
into (if I knew enough to say "sneaked" I wouldn't be
the type of person who does such things) the not yet
reopened Salone Margherita, the basement
theater and music hall beneath the Galleria
Umberto (photo, left) across from the San Carlo opera house. Workmen
had left the door open, so for a while I prowled the
darkened empty passages of what had been the first café-chantant in Italy. If it had been a
film, I would have heard mysterious ghost melodies swell
up all around me, my entire field of vision would have
shimmered over to soft focus, and I —shy little me— would
have beheld some of those buxom songbirds that one sees in
Degas’ version of decadent Belle Époque high
life (image, below, right). It would have been
titillating, but since I can’t even write that word and
keep a straight libido, let’s move on.
Belle Époque, café-chantant,
fin de siècle —in the 1890s Italy imported the
tradition from France— lock, stock and
barrel-stave-corseted songstresses. The café-chantant
was originally an open-air venue, streetside cafes in
Paris where professional musicians and female singers
would perform popular music for the patrons. Popular music
has always been at least somewhat anti-establishment, so
there was that element, as well, going out at night to
hear something you might not quite get at the opera,
something more up-to-date and, one hopes, tantalizingly
decadent. Maybe even fun.
The tradition has much in common
with the cabaret tradition, and there is
confusing genre overlap in trying to define café-chantant,
café-concert, cabaret, tabarin, music hall, vaudeville, etc., but
at least in its Italian manifestation, the tradition
remained largely non-political, focusing on lighter music,
often risqué but not bawdy. (Well, maybe a tad. Modern
Italian does recognize the term “la mossa”—the
move—as a reference to that unambiguous snap and waggle of
the hips that café-chantant
singers would often close a song with —the
grind without the bump, so to speak. It was just enough to
amuse but not offend high-class patrons, such as the young
crown prince, Vittorio Emanuele (the future V.E III of
Italy), known to attend when he was in town. The French
term for the female singers was chanteuse.
The Italian term, sciantosa, is a direct coinage from the French.
(In that regard, there is a marvelous Italian film, La Sciantosa, from 1970, directed by
Alfredo Giannetti and starring Anna Magnani and Massimo Ranieri, centering
around such a singer and a young Italian soldier in WWI.)
In Naples, the Salone
Margherita was opened when the entire Galleria
Umberto was inaugurated in 1890. (The Salone
was named for King Umberto’s wife, the beloved queen
consort, Margherita of Savoy (1851-1926; photo, left),
whose name still remains on everyone’s lips around the
world, as she was also the eponym for the pizza
Margherita.) Elsewhere in Italy, the Gran Salone Eden in Milan and the
Music Hall Olympia in Roma opened shortly thereafter. In
hindsight, it made sense to have an exuberant, even
daring, venue for entertainment to represent the new,
young nation state of Italy; industry was tooling up,
Italy was on the verge of colonial expansion in Africa
(at the time, a sign of national vigor) and there was
great optimism about the future that did not end until
the Great War. The Salone Margherita
lasted through that war (during which time, the songs,
unsurprisingly, became tinged with realism) and, 25
years later, even through the Greatest War. After that
one, the Salone, like the large Gallery
above it, became a bustling, grimy hive of
“Hey-Joe-you-got-gum?” activity that was anything but
elegant. The Salone was closed in 1952,
then reopened, then closed again. This time around, the
reports say it will open as some sort of an updated
version of the real thing: intimate premises, singers,
tables, drinks, and, one hopes, decadence.